Books on BookTok: tackling the aestheticisation of reading
BookTok has helped a wellspring of independent businesses specialising in book-related merchandise thrive, but other large corporations have also entered the book economy, including fashion behemoths Dior and Coach. The former has produced a series of bags based on various books – retailing for more than £2,000 – and the latter has produced a line of book charms for £95 each.
For Nate (@nateblackbooks; 2,881 followers) – who this week was awarded the 2026 Northern Debut Award for Fiction – “reading is now considered a hobby for people of all ages, and where there’s an audience, there’s money”. Berta (@bertaonbooks; 2,455 followers) spoke to a similar point: “Literature is no longer just about reading. Now it has created its own microcosm. On one hand, the IP attached to books is just as important as the words written on the page. Let’s take Heated Rivalry as an example. What started as the second book in the sports romance book series has turned into a global phenomenon: TV rights, spin-off books, clothing items, stationery, dishware. The effect of literature has infiltrated the world beyond the literary scope.”
The aestheticisation of literature was remarked upon in author Nicola Dinan’s recent Substack. Reflecting on an event she attended last year at the Miu Miu Literary Club, Dinan wrote: “The event seemed to be part of a strange turn in culture: the aestheticisation of literature… I still can’t buy into literature as an aesthetic practice, or one in which the noun (writer, reader) takes precedence over the verb (writing, reading).” Hannah (@hannah.s.books; 12,300 followers) believes that products such as the Dior bag “definitely create a sense of elitism. I feel too disconnected from the world of high fashion for a Hungry Caterpillar bag that costs £2,900 to be relatable”. Similarly, “designer bookish handbags make no sense” to Nate, who added that they seem “more of a status symbol than a signifier to other readers that you love books”.
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He explained: “As much as I love the look of bookish designer bags and goods, they can only be afforded by the richest readers. To me, reading is a liberating, social hobby that should be easily accessible for all… Designer goods targeting the bookish niche seem like the antithesis of bookish values.” Aiysha (@aiyshasbookrealm; 2,786 followers) also found the bags “elitist” due to their high price point. Nate added that the bags seem disingenuous, a “cash grab” rather than a meaningful addition to the book industry. “Social media has all but saved reading, turning it into a deeply social hobby… But due to reading’s newfound visibility and the new wave of modern readers eager to share their passion, large corporations are eager to turn a profit.”
Berta offered a different perspective: “Personally, I think these products contribute to a positive perspective on literature by normalising reading… Incorporating book aesthetics into other industries, like fashion, also implicitly increases accessibility to reading… By watching others incorporate bookish merch in their lifestyles, [people] are receiving the message that reading should be normalised and can be enjoyed by a wide audience.”
There has been a marked shift in how reading is considered within cultural discourse, of which the designer bags and keyrings are a symptom. “More and more readers want to proudly show their favourite books publicly,” noted Berta. As a self-proclaimed fan of book-related merchandise, Nate finds it “nice to wear or carry bookish products that reflect my passion for the craft”. For Silvia (@ashleejn; 18,500 followers), these products “put the fandom at the forefront… The outlook on reading and other ‘nerdy’ hobbies like videogames, colouring and crafting has changed massively with YouTube and social media”. Reading is no longer only a hobby, but a “lifestyle”, added Silvia. It is “more socially acceptable to wear bookish apparel everywhere rather than solely in places like conventions and book events”, agreed Aiysha.
“I do love that reading is seen as cool,” continued Hannah. “Book celebrities such as Dua Lipa are a great example of this, especially when coupled with the story of how she met her new husband Callum Turner.” After meeting previously, the pair reportedly bonded over reading the same book… She’s made reading seem both cool and romantic.”
